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Pantone's color seers say earth tones for fall

By Catherine Dayrit
May 14, 2009

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Among the colors designers expect to be big for fall is "Rapture Rose," which combines fuchsia and pink. For a similar colored-gemstone look, seek out pieces such as Jordan Schlanger's "Budding 'V' Necklace" in 18-karat yellow gold with pink tourmaline; suggested retail price is $2,500 for the necklace and $550 for the earrings. JordanSchlanger.com

New York--Each season, the world-renowned color experts at Pantone release a report detailing the palette of hues that fashion designers expect to be indicative of the season. And for fall, designers are placing their bets on a rainbow of earth tones, from true red and deep orange to vibrant blue.

"The fall 2009 palette is more unique and thoughtful than the typical autumnal hues of years past," Pantone Color Institute Executive Director Leatrice Eiseman said in the report. "Designers recognize the desire for fundamental basics that speak to the current economic conditions, but also understand the need to incorporate vibrant color to grab the consumers' eyes and entice them to buy."

Among the top 10 colors designers identified as the most directional hues for fall are: "American Beauty," a balanced, true red; "Purple Heart," a jewel-tone purple; "Honey Yellow," a warm, more subdued version of the sunny "Mimosa Yellow," Pantone's 2009 Color of the Year; "Burnt Sienna," an earthy shade of orange; "Rapture Rose," combining the vibrancy of fuchsia and the softness of pink; "Warm Olive," a rich yellow-green; and finally "Majolica Blue," a deep teal.

Helena Krodel, spokeswoman for the Jewelry Information Center, says that what these trends mean for jewelry is a proliferation of large gemstones in earth tones or rich deep colors. The stones will be combined with chain-links or charms in precious metals, making for oversized statement necklaces.

As for basic colors for the season, designers surveyed by Pantone selected "Creme Brulee," a grayed-down beige; "Iron," a grounding color somewhere between brown and gray that coordinates well with all colors in the palette; and "Nomad," which serves as a bridge between the beige and light gray.

Such tones serve as an ideal canvas for jewelry, whether that means sticking to the monotone look with one of the all-metal statement necklaces that will be big for fall, or selecting colored gemstones with intense hues that pop.

Leatrice says that of the 10 colors, the neutral Iron received the highest rating from designers, a choice that points to practicality.

"Designers are very aware that consumers are conscious of how they're spending their money," she says. "They want something very consistent."

She also adds that over the last few seasons there has been more of a trend toward "trans-seasonal" dressing, in which apparel and accessories can be used from one season and into the next, so trends linger and aren't thrown out the door quite so quickly.

"If you love something, it's a shame to hang it in the closet," she says.

And that goes for jewelry too. While precious stones tend to be pricey, perhaps making for an initial barrier at the sales counter, their classic nature helps to make them pieces worth investing in, items that can be worn time and again.

Editor's note: To see more of the latest colored-gemstone jewelry, visit National Jeweler's 10X blog.
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