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AGTA Spectrum bursts with juicy, saleable color
By Teresa Novellino
October 28, 2009
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| Two pieces by James Currens of J.W. Currens in New York, a moonstone ring and an emerald brooch, tied for best of show at the AGTA Spectrum Awards. |
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New York--Pretty and practical won out at the 2010 AGTA Spectrum Awards, where many of the winning pieces seemed easily wearable--and given the use of more affordably priced colored gems--saleable in a tough economic climate, too.
An editor's preview of the Spectrum Awards--now in its 26th year--was held on Monday at a penthouse studio in New York City's Greenwich Village and hosted by the Dallas-based American Gem Trade Association (AGTA). The event also showcased lapidary arts as part of the AGTA Cutting Edge Awards.
This year, moody, luminous moonstones seemed to be having a moment. The top winner, tied for "Best of Show" and winning "First Place Evening Wear," was James Currens of New York-based J.W. Currens Inc., who took honors for a platinum and silver "Empress" ring featuring a 15.58-carat pear-shaped moonstone encircled by rows of diamonds, color-change garnets and oval-shaped moonstones.
But classic stones were big players, too. The piece that tied for "Best of Show," which also took third place in the evening wear category, was "The Quiet Moment" brooch, featuring 66.15 carats of oval-shaped emeralds.
Gems that played prominently among the winning selections included not only moonstone, but sapphires, garnet and tourmaline--all appearing in various and often unexpected colors. Winning designs were also generously sprinkled with colored and colorless diamonds as accents, and even rough-diamond slices made their way into the designs.
As for styles, there were nature themes, three-dimensional-looking gems--particularly quartz--and cabochon cuts. Fashion favorites, including blackened metals and rich, high-karat gold pieces, were also among those in the winner's circle.
Best of Category Winners
Best of show (tied) and first place in evening wear:
James Currens, J.W. Currens, New York
"Empress" ring in platinum and silver featuring a 15.58-carat pear-shaped moonstone, 19.36 carats of color-change garnets, 6.40 carats of oval-shaped moonstones and 2.46 carats of diamonds.
Best of show (tied) and third place in evening wear:
James Currens, J.W. Currens, New York
"The Quiet Moment" brooch in 18-karat white gold, silver and platinum featuring 66.15 carats of oval-shaped emeralds and accented with 17.05 carats of colorless and multi-colored diamonds.
Best use of color and and first place in classical:
Lilly Fitzgerald, Lilly Fitzgerald/Goldsmith, Spencer, Mass.
22-karat yellow gold necklace featuring multicolored sapphire cabochons.
Best use of platinum and color:
Tracy Janule, Custom Jewelry and Wax Creations, Gilbert, Ariz.
Platinum ring featuring a 6.94-carat aquamarine, two tri-angel shield peridots weighing 4.95 carats and two 0.16 carat square-cut peridots.
Best use of pearls:
Graham Edney, Graham Edney, Santa Barbara, Calif.
Platinum earrings featuring freshwater pearls and 1.50 carats of white, pink and yellow diamonds.
Fashion forward:
Victor Velyan, Victor Velyan, Los Angeles
24-karat yellow gold and silver with brown patina bangle featuring a 20.54-carat oval-shaped star ruby cabochon and 3.15 carats of natural-colored diamonds.
Editor's choice:
Evelyn Clothier, Evelyn Clothier Jewelry, New York
Platinum "Tassel" necklace featuring a 5.59-carat brown diamond accented with 9.35 carats of white diamonds, 14.03 carats of pearls and 253.22 carats of diamond beads.
SPECTRUM AWARDS
Bridal Wear
First place, bridal wear:
Maria Canale, Suna Bros., New York
18-karat white gold earrings featuring a 12.82-carat shield-cut pink topaz, 1.56 carats of full-cut diamonds and 0.15 carats of baguette diamonds.
Second place, bridal wear:
Samuel Getz, Samuel Getz Designs, Miami
Platinum and 18-karat yellow gold ring featuring a 10.71-carat Asscher-cut mint green grossular garnet, two Asscher-cut diamonds totaling 2.13 carats and 68 round brilliant-cut diamonds.
Third place, bridal wear:
Evelyn Clothier, Evelyn Clothier Jewelry, New York
18-karat rose gold earrings featuring white agate briolettes and 0.91 carats of pink diamonds.
Honorable mention, bridal wear:
Richard Krementz Gemstones, Springfield, N.J.
Platinum and 18-karat yellow prong-set pendant featuring a 33.58-carat peridot and 9.71 carats of diamonds.
Manufacturing honors, bridal wear:
Ryan Roberts, Ryan Roberts, Ltd., Chimayo, N.M.
Platinum ring featuring an 11.65-carat violet spinel accented with 1.06 carats of white diamonds and 0.24 carats of pink diamonds.
Platinum honors, bridal wear:
Evelyn Clothier, Evelyn Clothier Jewelry, New York
Platinum earrings featuring 48.82 carats of blue moonstone cabochons and 4.75 carats of diamonds.
Business/Day Wear
First place, business/day wear:
Ariane Zurcher, Ariane Zurcher Designs, Long Island City, N.Y.
18-karat brushed yellow gold bracelet featuring 25.08 carats of pink topaz cabochons, 17.21 carats of mandarin garnets, 4.03 carats of Paraiba tourmalines, 12 carats of tourmalines, 2.96 carats of aquamarines and 2.69 carats of pink sapphires.
Second place, business/day wear:
Ashleigh Branstetter, Ashleigh Branstetter, LLC, New Orleans, La.
18-karat white gold earrings featuring 40.61 carats of chalcedony briolettes, 11.23 carats of moss diamond slices and 2.32 carats of white diamond slices.
Third place, business/day wear:
Michael Endlich, Pave Fine Jewelry, Oakland, Calif.
22-karat yellow gold ring featuring a 9.51-carat green tourmaline accented with 0.18 carats of diamonds.
Honorable mention, business/day wear:
Susan Sadler, Susan Sadler Fine Jewelry Design, Tulsa, Okla.
Vintage turquoise-green bakelite bracelet featuring a 49.30-carat Sonnoran Sunrise and 0.10-carat bezel-set diamond in 18-karat and 18.5-karat yellow gold.
Manufacturing honors, business/day wear:
Michael Endlich, Pave Fine Jewelry, Oakland, Calif.
18-karat rose gold ring featuring a 9.93-carat rainbow moonstone accented with two diamonds totaling 0.23 carats.
Platinum honors, business/day wear:
James Currens, J.W. Currens Inc., New York.
Platinum "Orbit" ring featuring a 5.37-carat pink spinel, 15.83 carats of spessartite garnets and 1.16 carats of diamonds.
Classical
Best use of color and first place, classical:
Lilly Fitzgerald, Lilly Fitzgerald/Goldsmith, Spencer, Mass.
22-karat yellow gold necklace featuring multicolored sapphire cabochons.
Second place, classical:
Leon Mege, Leon Mege, New York
Platinum and silver ring featuring a 2.19-carat Paraiba tourmaline accented with 0.98 carats of tourmalines and 0.52 carats of diamonds.
Third place, classical:
James Currens, J.W. Currens New York
Platinum bracelet featuring 19.88 carats of natural rubies and 12.78 carats of diamonds.
Honorable mention, classical:
Lilly Fitzgerald, Lilly Fitzgerald/Goldsmith, Spencer, Mass.
22-karat yellow gold hand-carved necklace featuring a tanzanite cabochon.
Manufacturing honors, classical:
Ashok Sancheti, Designs by Ashok Sancheti (doing business as Pioneer Gems), New York
Natural blue agate bangle featuring platinum and 18.73 carats of white diamonds.
Platinum honors, classical:
Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore LLC, New York
Platinum ring featuring a 10.78-carat cushion-cut cornflower-blue natural sapphire accented with 1.29 carats of diamonds.
Evening Wear
Best of show and first place, evening wear:
James Currens, J.W. Currens, New York
"Empress" ring in platinum and silver featuring a 15.58-carat pear-shaped moonstone, 19.36 carats of color-change garnets, 6.40 carats of oval-shaped moonstones and 2.46 carats of diamonds.
Second place, evening wear:
Evelyn Clothier, Evelyn Clothier Jewelry, New York
Platinum and 18-karat yellow gold butterfly brooch featuring 20.17 carats of sliced diamonds and 15.93 carats of pink, yellow and white diamonds.
Evening wear, best of show and third place:
James Currens, J.W. Currens Inc., New York
"The Quiet Moment" brooch in 18-karat white gold, silver and platinum featuring 66.15 carats of oval-shaped emeralds and accented with 17.05 carats of colorless and multi-colored diamonds.
Evening wear, honorable mention and best use of pearls:
Graham Edney, Graham Edney, Santa Barbara, Calif.
Platinum earrings featuring freshwater pearls and 1.50 carats of white, pink and yellow diamonds.
Manufacturing honors, evening wear:
Yael Designs, San Francisco
18-karat white gold "Lava" earrings featuring 1.43 carats of black diamonds and 2.77 carats of white diamonds.
Evening wear, platinum honors:
Ashok Sancheti, Designs by Ashok Sancheti (doing business as Pioneer Gems), New York
Platinum earrings featuring 81.15 carats of morganite drops accented with 6.66 carats of zircons, 1.50 carats of spinel and 1.65 carats of diamonds.
Men's wear
First place, men's wear:
Jack Bigio, Basser and Bigio, New York
Platinum cuff links featuring sapphire slices and 1 carat of diamonds attached to a platinum mechanism.
Second place, men's wear:
Ivan Sagel, Ivan Sagel, Chicago
18-karat white and yellow gold ring featuring a 4.07-carat millenium-cut blue tourmaline.
Third place, men's wear:
Link Wachler, Link Wachler Designs, Troy, Mich.
18-karat yellow gold ring featuring a baroque pearl, a mother-of-pearl "eye patch," a 3-millimeter cultured pearl and a 0.02-carat ruby.
Manufacturing honors, men's wear:
Ashleigh Branstetter, Ashleigh Branstetter, New Orleans, La.
Platinum cuff links featuring 39.89 carats of London blue topaz cabochons and 1.57 carats of pave diamonds.
Platinum honors, men's wear:
Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design, Long Beach, Calif.
Platinum ring featuring a 13.81-carat spessartite garnet, 1.58 carats of yellow diamonds and 0.62 carats of diamonds.
CUTTING EDGE AWARDS
A1-Open Category Classic
First place, A1, open category classic gemstone:
Robert Kane, Fine Gems International, Helena, Mont.
4.53-carat cushion-cut natural pink sapphire.
Second place, A1, open category classic gemstone:
Ruben Bindra, B and B Fine Gems, Los Angeles
33.16-carat emerald-cut blue sapphire.
Third place, A1, open category classic gemstone:
Ruben Bindra, B and B Fine Gems, Los Angeles
13.11-carat cushion-cut orange Sapphire.
Honorable mention, A1, open category classic gemstone:
Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman and Co., San Francisco
30.07-carat cushion-cut natural yellow sapphire.
A2-Open Category Other Gemstones
First place, A2, open category all other faceted:
Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman and Co., San Francisco
10.78-carat heart-shaped natural red spinel.
Second place, A2, open category all other faceted: second place: Ben Kho, Kho International, Ltd., Decatur, Ga., 19.11-carat trilliant-cut sphalerite.
Third place, A2, open category all other faceted:
Clay Zava, Zava Mastercuts, Carrboro, N.C.
31.94-carat "tricheck"-cut tanzanite.
Honorable mention, A2, open category all other faceted:
Ben Kho, Kho International Ltd., Decatur, Ga.
11.48-carat antique cushion-cut rhodochrosite.
Honorable mention, A2, open category all other faceted:
Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp., New York
16.88-carat cushion-cut Paraiba tourmaline.
Phenomenal Gemstones
First place, A3, open category phenomenal:
Larry Woods, Jewels From the Woods, Blanco, Texas.
"Celestial Compass" 5.13-carat color-change garnet.
Second place, A3, open category phenomenal:
Nandu Nichani, Temple Trading Co., Encinitas, Calif.
Suite of 11 graduated oval-shaped blue moonstones totaling 84.27 carats.
Pairs and Suites
First place, B, pairs and suites:
Ben Kho, Kho International Ltd., Decatur, Ga.
Suite of 11 fantasy cushion-cut beryls totaling 93.35 carats.
Second place, B, pairs and suites:
Darryl Alexander, Alexander's Jeweler's and Ty Montell, Gilbert, Ariz.
Pair of green quartz stones totaling 41.47 carats.
Third place, B, pairs and suites:
Larry Woods, Jewels From the Woods, Blanco, Texas
"Celestial" 19 gemstone suite of malaya garnets totaling 33.25 carats.
Honorable mention, B, pairs and suites:
Ruben Bindra, B and B Fine Gems, Los Angeles
Matched pair of cushion-cut aquamarines totaling 47.50 carats.
Faceting
First place, C, faceting:
Tom Schneider, Thomas M. Schneider, San Diego
11.54-carat concave-cut round grossular garnet.
Second place, C, faceting:
Ben Kho, Kho International, Ltd., Decatur, Ga.
10.01-carat cushion-cut pink tourmaline.
Third place, C, faceting:
Dalan Hargrave, GemStarz, Spring Branch, Texas
Rose quartz displaying the Breast Cancer Ribbon.
Honorable mention, C, faceting:
Stephen Kotlowski, Uniquely-K-Custom Gems, Newburgh, N.Y.
276.90-carat faceted blue topaz.
Honorable mention, C, faceting:
John Dyer, John Dyer and Co., Edina, Minn.
44.74-carat citrine in a "Star of David" cut.
Carving
First place, D, carving:
Dalan Hargrave, Dust Devil Mining, Spring Branch, Texas
61-carat tri-color sunstone.
Second place, D, carving:
Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs, New York
Hand-carved Mexican fire opal totaling 22.6 grams.
Third place, D, carving:
Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs, New York
Hand-carved almandine garnet totaling 25.1 grams.
Combination
First place, E, combination:
Darryl Alexander, Alexander's Jeweler's and Ty Montell, Gilbert, Ariz.
Pair of ametrines, 70 carats total.
Second place, E, combination:
Michael Dyber, Michael M. Dyber, Rumney, N.H.
153.88-carat aquamarine utilizing "Optic Dishes" and "Photon Phacets" lapidary techniques.
Third place, E, combination:
Dalan Hargrave, Geo Gem, Spring Branch, Texas
47-carat "Starlight-cut" green beryl.
Objects of Art
First place, F, objects of art:
Tigran Lementsyan, Andrew Sarosi, Los Angeles
18-karat yellow "Wheat Shaft" accented with seed pearls and round white diamonds totaling 0.66 carats.
Second place, F, objects of art:
Gregore Morin, Gregore Joailliers, Santa Barbara, Calif.
"Swiss Connection" brooch featuring 84 carats of white opals, 12.72 carats of brown opals and 0.48 carats of diamonds.
This year's AGTA Spectrum Awards will be presented during the 2010 AGTA GemFair Tucson, scheduled for Feb. 2-7 at the Tucson Convention Center in Tucson, Ariz.
Winning entries will be displayed during the show, and winners will be recognized during the AGTA Dinner Dance and Awards Gala, which starts at 7:00 p.m., on Saturday, Feb. 6. Tickets for the gala are $100 and cocktail attire is encouraged.
Platinum Honors were once again awarded with the support of Platinum Guild International, with all entries whose primary metal was platinum eligible in the category.
All designs that qualified for the Spectrum Awards competition were considered for Manufacturing Honors, which celebrates outstanding use of colored gemstones and cultured pearls in jewelry appropriate to be manufactured in production quantities.
Fashion Forward Honors recognize outstanding use of colored gemstone and/or cultured-pearl beads in artful, trend-setting jewelry. All necklaces, earrings, bracelets or other jewelry that qualified for judging in the AGTA Spectrum Awards competition automatically qualified.
For further information on the AGTA show and other events in Tucson, call (800) 972-1162 or visit the AGTA's Web site, AGTA.org.
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