Color trend caters to self-purchasers

Colored Stones

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Color trend caters to self-purchasers

By Catherine Dayrit

March 18, 2009

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Mathon Paris "Manhattan" collection ring in white gold with aquamarine, tourmaline and peridot; suggested retail price is $8,508. Mathon-Paris.com

Though diamonds may be a girl's best friend, they're not necessarily the go-to designs for women buying for themselves.

Retailers over the holiday season reported that lower price-point colored-gemstone jewelry was among the pieces that gift-shopping women were picking up for their own jewelry boxes. And National Jeweler's annual post-holiday survey found that 21 percent of retail respondents saw increased margins for their colored-gemstone jewelry for the 2008 holiday season, compared with 2007.

The Spring 2009 Fashion Week runways were ripe with color--and we're not just talking about lushly hued apparel. From earthy stones such as turquoise and coral to sleek, faceted gemstones, vibrant, attention-grabbing jewelry was abundant too. (See colored-gemstone designs here.)

Design Trends: The overarching theme for jewelry in 2009 is that big and bold is in. That's good news for colored gemstones--especially for the flamboyant hot pinks and cerulean blues that appear to have caught many a designer's fancy as of late. Another important color story is green, which one designer described as a flattering hue that summons thoughts of well-being, health and nature. In terms of styles, oversized cocktail rings remain a color staple, as do designs sprinkled with smaller colored gemstones.

Price Points: The slowing of the economy has led to some volatility in the gemstone market over the last year, says Stuart Robertson, research director for Gemworld International, which publishes The Guide, a tool for wholesale gem pricing. Robertson says there has been an upward price trend for high-quality blue sapphire and emerald--two of the three "precious" stones--while prices for the third, ruby, are "holding quite well," despite the embargo against stones originating from Myanmar, including prized "Burmese ruby." Though prices for high-quality material may be trending up, Robertson says more commonly available gemstones, including precious stones at mid-level quality, are stable to slightly lower than they were a year ago. He expects cut gemstone prices at the February Tucson gem shows to be down between 10 and 15 percent.

Wardrobing Tips: Heavily textured, patterned clothing will be a big trend for spring, and for jewelry that stands out, bib-style colored gemstone necklaces will do the trick. Style experts also say that large, dramatic earrings will be a must-have in 2009. Look for simple yet striking drops and for chandelier styles fringed by a multitude of small stones.

Treatment Issues: The topic of gemstone-treatment disclosures revved up in the last year, with the buzz about treatments beginning at the Tucson gem shows, followed by lawsuits filed against Blue Nile and Jewelry Television focused on treatment disclosure. Despite the controversy, treatments will go on, but the call for full disclosure to become an industry-wide issue is sure to grow louder.

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