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Cultured pearls in the 21st century: A free market and new looks

March 21, 2008

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The pearl industry has progressed from the production of traditional white Japanese akoya pearls in the early twentieth century to today’s cultured pearls of various shades from Australia and French Polynesia, according to the International Colored Gemstone Association.

Various factors contributed to the loss of control by the Japanese including: increased marketing of South Sea pearls from Australia and black pearls from French Polynesia; the production of less expensive, fine-quality Chinese freshwater cultured pearls; and the spread of an infectious disease throughout Japanese crops.

The free market that emerged was not without its problems. Large amounts of Chinese goods depressed prices and the French Polynesians—who began selling pearls under the label Tahitian—drastically increased production but lost control of quality.

As top designers’ work with colored pearls gained attention, the multi-hued items sparked a fashion revolution. Pearl producers increased spending on branding and advertising, which caused large retailers like Tiffany & Co. to take notice.
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