Material girl
The boldly stylish jewels of Kara Ross play up the inherent beauty of nature's creations

September 01, 2008

Kara Ross

By Melissa Shepherd

If accessories, by their definition, are meant to play second fiddle in the fashion world, Kara Ross hasn't received the message. Her ultra-chic jewels and handbags are designed to be nothing less than the main attraction.

Ross' spring/summer jewelry collection typifies this approach, combining bold proportions and refined styling in pieces that steal the spotlight without being showy. In fact, her no-fuss design philosophy favors looks that let the innate beauty of their materials shine—namely, an array of organic matter, gemstones, rich yellow gold and a few well-placed diamond accents. The result is a collection full of texture, pattern and saturated color.

A passion for raw materials, in particular, comes out in Ross's latest work. Coral, marcasite and lava are among her muses this season, the latter serving as inspiration for her favorite piece for summer, an extra-wide, celestial-looking cuff bracelet.

Kara Ross's love for organic materials is evident in this raw white and pink coral and rock crystal pendant on an 18-karat gold chain.

"I love the raw lava cuff with 18-karat white and yellow gold stars and diamonds," she says. "Lava is such a rare, gorgeous material."

Dimpled by the lava's natural cracks and crevices, the cuff is matched with a chunky lava and 18-karat gold ring that seemingly erupts with pink tourmaline at its center. The juxtaposition of rough and smooth is in keeping with a personal style she calls "relaxed elegance."

From the lava set, the spring/summer collection traverses a wide range of looks, from sleek wood cuffs (in cherry and more exotic grains like black locust and zebra) to exuberant, gumball-sized gemstone rings to delicate beaded link necklaces in gold, silver, pearls or gems.

"I am drawn to unique, standout, handcrafted pieces, and I think that is very much what I strive to do in my fine-jewelry line," says Ross, who's based on New York's tony Upper East Side. "I design for an elegant but bold woman who is confident and not afraid to stand out."

Designed for J. Mendel, these bold cuffs are part of the lower-priced Kara by Kara Ross boutique collection to debut in the fall, in 18-karat gold plate with various semiprecious stones, here tiger's eye.

The varied looks of the collection get their cohesiveness from this sense of confidence. A prime example is her arrowhead drop earrings. Only a self-assured wearer could pull off the oversized three-piece drops, done in vivid rutilated quartz, malachite, lapis and white opal, as well as in zebra wood.

Before launching her first full collection in 2002, Ross got certified as a gemologist at the Gemological Institute of America, and her eye for color is a main design strength. Besides the arrowhead earrings, her affinity for gems—and lots of them—comes through in her signature rings. Faceted morganite and beryl flank large cabochon centers of milky aqua or fire opal in her otherworldly triple-stone rings. Meanwhile, her futuristic, square-shaped inset rings cut one stone into another in striking color combinations of semiprecious gems.

Since creating her first square-cut gemstone ring as a teenager—from a tourmaline her parents bought her during a family trip to Africa—it seems Ross is always on the hunt for new design materials. Her frequent travels are a steady source of ideas.

"I was in Peru last fall, which was incredible," she says. "I bought a bright, colorful flower ring there that has inspired much of my new boutique line, Kara by Kara Ross."

The rest of Ross's collection pairs 18-karat gold with unusual materials, including these Double V zebra wood earrings with diamonds.

Set to hit stores this fall, the lower-priced fashion collection also includes the gem-laden cutout cuffs she initially designed for a J. Mendel runway show.

Ross has attracted retail partners known for their high style quotient—department stores such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Browns in London and TsUM in Moscow, the casino resort Wynn Las Vegas and boutiques throughout the United States and as far away as Hong Kong.

She's also something of a media darling. In the past few months alone, her work has popped up in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, In Style, Town and Country and O Magazine. It's not surprising then, that she's a favorite in Hollywood. Cameron Diaz, Eva Longoria, Catherine Zeta Jones and Oprah Winfrey are among the celebrities who have been photographed wearing her jewels.

The attention will only increase with the expansion of her business this fall. In addition to Kara by Kara Ross, she's unveiling larger handbags, which, like her clutches, feature exotic leathers with gemstone accents, and her first collection of leather belts.