Found in translation
Five ways to interpret the fall trends through jewelry

September 01, 2008

By Randi Molofsky

The silhouette: Asymmetrical
Designers give us the shoulder and create some drama

Hilary Swank, Katherine Heigl and Anne Hathaway all donned one-shoulder dresses for the Oscars. Keep an eye out for ultra-feminine dresses with full skirts and defined waistlines that leave one shoulder exposed. Tracy Reese used a bag of tricks on this trend, employing gathering, layers of tulle and bold prints to assemble her collection of asymmetrical dresses. Monique Lhuillier's first fall runway look was a structured, metallic-sheen dress with subtle ruffles on the shoulder, and a stunning evening gown had one diagonal strap covered with cabochon gemstones. Sari Gueron went for toga-inspired gowns that wrapped around the entirety of one shoulder and the neck, proving that a little skin can go a long way.

—Forget necklaces and go for statement earrings. Whether chandeliers, stilettos or something bolder in an oversized swirl or organic shape, earrings bring just the right touch to this asymmetrical silhouette. A stunning cocktail ring placed on the hand opposite the covered shoulder also brings a sense of balance.

The era: mid-century
Designers turn prim and proper for vintage looks

Little girls love playing dress up, and it seems that women will have the same chance this fall when ladylike separates and daywear become de rigueur. Maybe inspired by the TV show Mad Men, set in Manhattan in the 1950s, or possibly by the Hitchcock revival under way in magazines and advertising, designers are showing puff-sleeve jackets, cinched waists, full skirts, sheaths and cashmere cardigans. Diane von Furstenberg dubbed her show "Foreign Affair" and borrowed liberally from the late '40s. Peter Som channeled the '60s photographs of Diane Arbus with vintage-esque ensembles, while Michael Kors counted on Hitchcock muses Kim Novak and Tippi Hedren for his ode to ladies who lunch.

—Delicate watches in yellow gold are a surefire way to evoke retro elegance, as are button earrings in either solid metal or with centers of pearls or gemstones. Mid-century details such as bows or starbursts on brooches or earrings hit the perfect note.

The color: chartreuse
The yellow-green hybrid springs into fall fashion

Interestingly, chartreuse, halfway between yellow and green, is the color most visible to the human eye. Maybe that's why so many designers have picked up on this shade for autumn, mostly in attention-grabbing draped dresses. Named for its resemblance to an herbal liqueur made by French monks, chartreuse was embraced on the fall runways by Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera and Temperley London. Expert draping in silks and chiffons worked well on toga-style and cocktail dresses, and the color was often paired with black accessories (tights, hats and belts) to create a stark contrast.

—To make the most of chartreuse, point customers toward purple gemstones. Violet is the shade directly opposite on the color wheel, meaning amethyst, tanzanite and purple topaz will make bold complements. What's more, purple is the "It" color in jewelry this year, so a wide array of styles and prices are available.

The embellishments: flowers and feathers
3-D blooms and plumes dress up the runways

If you saw the Academy Awards, you know that red-carpet favorite Marchesa turned leading ladies Anne Hathaway and Jessica Alba into veritable bouquets blooming with roses and feathers. It looks as though this trend is here to stay, as a range of designers made statements in flora and plumage on the fall runways. Vera Wang punctuated her street-inspired collection with fabrics including felt and organza gathered into stunning florets, while Hervé Léger by Max Azria opted for feather details and simple rose appliqués at the shoulders. Chanel used ostrich feathers as detailing on party-perfect dresses, and Marchesa went from red carpet to reality with an above-the-knee dress that featured bunches of organza roses as the cap sleeves.

—Rosettes are a huge trend in jewelry right now. Three-dimensional rose-shaped rings in gold or colored with enamel perfectly capture this style, as do flower-shaped stud earrings. For something more abstract, stock cutout pieces like flower outlines dotted with gemstones or diamonds.

The print: plaid
21st-century lasses ditch the kilt in favor of more modern threads

Tartans have a way of coming across as decidedly old school, and for good reason. Used for centuries, these checkered patterns are most often associated with storied lineages and conservative dressers. But this year, designers are bringing plaids back to the future with whimsical applications and urban styling more suited to gutsy fashionistas than golf pants. Designer Thakoon Panichgul of Thakoon said, "I want to apply aggressive elements on soft, refined silhouettes," and he did just that by merging classic plaid on a Mao-style jacket. At Vivienne Westwood, a punk sensibility shone through with capes and ponchos in camouflage-like patched tartans, while Alexander McQueen embodied a romanticized British colonialism with bold, tailored, military-style plaid coats.

—While the new plaid is more punk than traditional, it still works with classic jewelry pieces. Pearls, especially Tahitians, evoke the dark side of this venerable fabric, while gold and champagne colors play well against its blues and greens.