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Special report: Jewelry design forecast

By Catherine Dayrit
April 23, 2009

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Wondering what jewelry trends will be bubbling up at the upcoming trade shows?

Well, according to the style seers at Italy's Vicenzaoro "First" show--the kickoff to the year's calendar of international events--retailers can expect some familiar sights, with designers extending their collections and making variations to designs that have already proven popular.

But don't worry about the same-old just yet. The Italians are noted for their innovation, and they didn't disappoint in that department. High notes include designs with spacious new volumes and pieces that pack a graphic punch.

Click At 'First' sight to see images of the five trends outlined below:

Pump up the volume: Openwork isn't anything new, but the trend is taking new form, literally, with cutout metals being worked into three-dimensional shapes.

Flat-out fabulous: Is faceting going out of fashion? Not quite, but designs featuring oversized gemstones with large tables and little depth were a common-and eye-catching sight at the show.

Black, white and beyond: Jewelry with black and white diamonds remains prevalent stateside, but Italian designers seem to prefer the two colors, paired or solo, in opaque form, most often in onyx and white agate, but sometimes in less-expensive enamel and crystal versions.

Part-of-the-way pave: When it comes to pave, just a little bit of sparkle can go a long way. At First, designers used pave sparingly on smaller components, playing up the juxtaposition between the luminous rocks and the smooth surface of gold.

Bibs for grown-ups: The statement necklace trend lived on at First, with bib versions leading the oversized trend. While the hefty diamond versions carry an equally weighty price tag, more affordable designs featured openwork and colored gemstones.

This story first appeared in the March 2009 print edition of National Jeweler.
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