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Label-lovers get their fix with jewelry, watches
By Mary Wisniewski
June 20, 2008
Basel, Switzerland—Fashion label Moschino just got an additional job.
A subsidiary of Italy's AEFFE Group, the brand signed a five-year deal with watch and jewelry manufacturer Binda Group for the licensed production and marketing of watches and jewelry under the Moschino "CheapandChic" label. The new collection, which debuted at this year's BaselWorld, confirms the ongoing trend of fashion houses moving into the jewelry and watch realm.
Moschino Creative Director Rossella Jardin said during the show that she wanted to make watches that were more like jewelry.
"Creating watches inspired by jewelry makes them 'fashion accessories' besides their technical specs and functions," she said, adding that the brand was a hit with both buyers and press at BaselWorld.
Though the brand's accessories are varied, most share a common tongue-in-cheek element. For example, the "Don't Be Too Late," timepiece includes multiple dials scattered throughout the bracelet, while another, entitled "Time for Music," offers a record album-inspired dial.
Other fashion brands already in the bauble business expanded upon their collections at BaselWorld. Diane von Furstenberg teamed up with H. Stern once again for the "Rock Watch Collection," revealing three jewelry-style watches with Swiss quartz mechanisms.
Early adapter Gucci, in the watch and jewelry business since the 1970s, just reopened its New York flagship store on Fifth Avenue in February, upping the ante on its accessories offerings by creating a free-standing watch and jewelry boutique.
Amanda Gizzi, the Jewelry Information Center's associate director for public relations, says more fashion brands are entering the jewelry and watch arena because jewelry itself is becoming an extension of fashion.
"It makes perfect sense since they already have brand recognition," Gizzi says. "Loyal customers are already there."
Besides the heavy logos that are usually incorporated into fashion accessories, similar themes tend to run through a label's offerings. For example, a necklace may resemble the chain featured on a handbag or a pair of jeans under the same label.
"It gives the recognition of cohesive design," Gizzi says.
 | | Gucci 's iconic "Horsebit" earrings and necklace in 18-karat gold; suggested retail is $2,225 and $2,490, respectively. Gucci.com |
Vera Hennrich, European manager of public relations and events for European Fossil, says Michael Kors' accessories take a cue from the brand's apparel, as do accessories from Marc by Marc Jacobs and Burberry.
"They always try to match the clothes line with accessories," she says of the brands, which are among the labels that Fossil has watch licensing deals with.
Italian accessories designer Isabella Zocchi keeps similar elements throughout all of her bags, shoes and jewelry. For example, the metal decorations accenting her "gritty-stiff bags" are the same asymmetrical motif featured on her rings and bangles. She says a brand's quality, the VIP factor and the high level of customer service may attract women to buy branded jewelry, but they still won't buy a product solely based on a name.
"In general, I think good style is always the best motivation to buy a jewel," she says.
Although the watch world is branded, Gizzi says, the jewelry world is, unfortunately, not. She says jewelers should view the category's expansion as an opportunity to pair up with a fashion brand or big fashion store.
"If someone spends five grand on an evening gown, they will spend the same amount on jewelry, or at least they should," she says. "The jewelry industry needs to wake up to another whole world outside of jewelry stores."
And part of the industry already is. To wit: Tanagro Fine Jewelers in New York recently introduced a fine-jewelry collection created for fashion designer Loris Diran's "Illumination" collection. Tanagro's master craftsman and creative director, Antonio Dibenedetto, crafted the pieces in 18-karat gold with diamonds and mandarin garnets, and says their value goes beyond the brand and lies also in the design.
Of course, Diran says, he knows consumers can be very loyal to brands, buying items like sunglasses and perfume just because they're made by a designer name they love. But that doesn't mean they buy jewelry for the same reasons.
When a woman buys a terrific garment for her wardrobe or an accessory to accent it, it's an impulse purchase, whereas jewelry is more of a lifetime commitment, he says. Although most associate jewelry with an emotional experience—or a gift—he says a growing number of women understand there isn't that big of a difference between a $5,000 dress and a pair of fantastic earrings to go with it.
"[You're] not buying it for a few seasons," he says. "You are buying it for its longevity."
Editor's note: This article first appeared in the May 16, 2008, issue of National Jeweler.
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