Fashion
|
|
|
Industry forecast 2009: Fashion
Organic, cost-savvy pieces climb fashion's trellis
By Catherine Dayrit
February 17, 2009
|
| Janet Goldman of Fragments predicts that rose gold designs, like this "Vitrine" cocktail ring featuring a "Rose de France" center and 0.80 carats of diamonds from Suzanne Kalan, will continue to gain favor in 2009. The ring retails at Fragments for $3,590. (212) 226-8878 |
|
|
New York--It's difficult to discuss fashion these days without the conversation taking a sharp turn toward a much less exhilarating yet equally timely topic: the state of the economy.
Especially when it comes to those oh-so-flighty trends that set down and alight as quickly as the seasons turn, retailers can't help but consider the competing tugs on consumers' pocketbooks as they decide which merchandise will be stylish and salable enough to make the grade in their stores.
"We know that the customer will be much more price-driven, especially at the beginning of the year," says Janet Goldman, chairman and chief executive officer of Fragments, which operates two stores in New York City. "They're going to be more selective than ever. They're looking for unique jewelry, eye-catching jewelry. What we need to offer are really different kinds of pieces to gain a competitive edge."
The runway shows for 2009 put a premium on individuality, offering plenty of inspiration for those seeking unique looks in both apparel and jewelry. Among the most prominent of trends was global-inspired looks that borrowed from around the globe. For jewelry, that means baubles with a hand-wrought, crafty bent to them, such as necklaces featuring beading and organic materials including wood, shell and leather, says Helena Krodel, associate director of media for the Jewelry Information Center.
Goldman says the trend toward organic designs (which often make for more affordable pieces) is one on her radar, and Fragments' inventory includes designs from Lena Skadegard, who crafts baubles from fossilized wood juxtaposed with fine gold and gemstones. Rough-cut diamonds also carry an organic edge, Goldman says, and they're comparatively price-friendly to boot, she adds.
Jewelry and style expert Michael O'Connor says that in addition to jewelry integrated with earthy touches such as wood, consumers will find unexpected materials such as sharkskin and python skin, making for jewelry that is bolder and that stands out against 2009's highly textured apparel.
Flesh-colored clothing was another major story on the spring runways and one that provides something of a blank palette for jewelry. Krodel points to designer Stella McCartney's Spring 2009 runway collection, where models wore nude-colored clothing and oversized, tribal-like hoop earrings made of shell.
In terms of jewelry styles, statement jewelry will remain a mainstay, with oversized necklaces, thick cuff bracelets and hefty cocktail rings holding sway. If anything, says Duvall O'Steen, director of jewelry public relations and promotion for the World Gold Council USA, jewelry is scaling up in size, with necklaces resembling everything from bibs and collars to breast-plate-like armor spanning the entire chest.
"Fashion is very feminine for spring," O'Steen says of a runway trend toward billowy, airy fabrics. "It's floaty and pretty, and the jewelry is creating a [bold] juxtaposition to that."
O'Steen and Krodel both see a return of large earrings, from hoops to chandelier styles, while O'Connor believes that small studs and button-like earrings will bring greater focus to large statement necklaces.
In terms of color, O'Connor says that on one side of the spectrum, black-and-white motifs are still strong on the runways. Saturated hues will also remain big, with rich reds, fuschias, eggplant and brown tones among the popular hues for the early part of the year, he predicts.
At Fragments, Goldman will be placing her bets on silver pieces, which a bevy of designers are offering lately to keep material costs down and price points lower. She also remains confident about yellow gold's place in fashionistas' hearts, and believes rose gold is still one to watch.
On the West Coast, at Sarah Leonard Fine Jewelers in Los Angeles, owner Gail Friedman says that while trends in the magazines tend to take a while to get to consumers, "people do want something unusual." She says it's not very wise to bank on anything these days, but believes line bracelets and bangles will do well along with big cocktail rings and "chocolate"-hued pearls, diamonds and gold.
While she says consumers do pick up on the major trends, their ultimate decisions tend to be based upon comfort and personal style.
"They'll pick something that looks good on them," she says.
What to look for in '09
--Design trends: Large statement necklaces, wide cuff bracelets, bold cocktail rings and attention-grabbing earrings such as oversized hoops or dramatic chandeliers all remain in fashion's favor. Look for organic material accents such as shell, bone and wood.
--Price points: For more affordable price points, keep an eye out for organic materials such as wood, and designs with openwork, as well as silver-only designs and silver mixed with other metals.
--Celebrity style: Jewelry and style expert Michael O'Connor says that pop star Beyonce, who favors big hoop earrings and chunky bracelets, is one to watch for her larger-than-life approach to jewelry wardrobing. On the subtler, classic end of the spectrum, keep an eye on Anne Hathaway.
--Wardrobing: Hefty statement jewelry looks great and stands out against both spring's billowy, airy apparel as well as its heavier, textured offerings. Large rings and chunky cuff bracelets can be worn together, but experts suggest that wearers select either a statement necklace or large earrings--not both at once.
Editor's note: This story first appeared in the January 2009 print edition of National Jeweler.
|
|
More Fashion
Oakland, Calif.--Lori Bonn Design has announced the addition of two new executives to its growing operation, with the company saying the move will enable Lori Bonn Design to fully capitalize on the considerable expansion it expects to undertake in the next year and beyond. Read More
|
Small multi video player located on right rail of NJN site
|
Save
E-mail
Print
Most Popular
RSS
Reprints
